HEALTH N FITNESS ZONE

Do you have a soft, smooth, clear, attractive and glowing skin on your face? If so, you are blessed with something and are very fortunate. You will have to exert to keep it as it is. Normally, worries and tensions, coupled with the climatic effect, tell upon the skin and many women look aged even in their prime. Facial routines keep up your youthful glow, but the best is to look after your skin.

To have a natural beauty is a blessing for a woman but most women tend to lose it through their own negligence. The pores of the skin get clogged by these cosmetics. Facial keeps the face attractive. There are nine stages of facial as below :

Stage 1: Cleansing with cleansing cream, milk, lotion.
Stage 2: Cream massage for 15-20 minutes.
Stage 3: Vibratory massage for 5-7 minutes.
Stage 4: If required then steaming can be given for 4-5 minutes.
Stage 5: Blackhead removal.
Stage 6: Face pack for 20-25 minutes.
Stage 7: Ultrasonic.
Stage 8: Oxilation.
Stage 9: Sun Protection Cream. Facial treatments are divided into two categories :

1. Preservative. These are aimed at maintaining the health of facial skin by correct cleaning methods, increase circulation, relaxation of the nerves and to activate the skin glands and metabolism through massage.

2. Corrective. These correct facial skin conditions, such as dryness. oiliness, blackheads. ageing, lines and minor conditions of acne.

Why Facial ? It is beneficial for:
• Cleansing the skin.
• Increasing circulation.
• Activating glandular activity.
• Relaxation of nerves.
• Maintaining muscle tone.
• Strengthening weak muscle tissue.
• Correcting skin disorders.
• Helping prevent lines and wrinkles on the face.
• Giving a youthful feeling.

How Often? Facial is one of the most restful treatments that offers:
1. relaxation.

2. stimulation from massage.

3. soothing effects of creams and lotions.

4. the finished application of an attractive make-up .

Facial can be given as often as once a week, once in fortnight and once in a month according to the requirements of the face.

Preparation for the Facial: Feel relaxed while doing facial and perform all work as noiselessly as possible. Under any circumstances, do not dip your fingers into any preparation. All packs and creams should be removed from their containers with a spatula. The following precautions must be taken while doing facial:

• Help the client (in case of a beautician) to relax in a quiet and professional manner. Provide a quiet atmosphere and work quietly.

• Maintain neat and clean sanitary conditions.

• Analyse the skin before facial treatment. Remove make-up to determine, if the skin is dry or oily, if comedones or acne are present, broken capillaries are visible, the texture of the skin is soft or velvety or harsh and rough. This analyses will determine the choice of creams to be used in massage movements, the amount of pressure to apply while massaging. the type of make-up to be applied after facial treatment and the areas on the face that need extra attention.

• Follow a systemic procedure.

• If your hands are cold, warm them before starting facial treatment.

• Keep your nails smooth so as not to scratch the skin while doing facial.

• Remove neck and ear jewellery before starting facial. Ask your client to place the same in her purse.

• Help your client to remove her dress carefully and hang it up. Remove her shoes.

• Place a towel across the back of the facial chair or near the facial bed.

• Protect the customer’s hair by fastening a headband around her hair. Adjust the clean towel from the client’s shoulders draping across the chest and across the middle of back.

• Close all the containers tightly after use.

The following equipment, implements and materials will be needed to give a facial:
• Cleansing lotion or cleansing cream.
• Emollient cream.
• Astringent lotion.
• Antiseptic solution.
• Talcum powder.
• Witch-hazel.
• Cleaning tissues, absorbent cotton, cotton pads.
• Headband, Towels, Make-up Tray, Clean sheets or drape.
• Facial steamer and Infra-red lamp.
• Lanolin or hormone cream for dry skin.

You may Find Fault when Receiving a Facial if you:
• suffer from offensive body odour, tobacco smell or foul breath.
• have excessive or rough massage.
• scratch the skin ‘due to rough nails.
• use very hot towels or steam the face for a long time.
• use infra-red lamp for more than five minutes.
• not being careful of sanitary requirements.
• get facial creams or other substances to get into the eyes, mouth, nostrils or on the hair line.
• do. not relax, are talking too much or being tense while getting facial manipulations.
• are careless in removing cream or leave a greasy film behind the ears or under the chin or in other areas on the face.

How to Apply and Remove Cleansing/Emollient Cream ?

1. Remove a little cleansing cream from the jar with a spatula and blend it with the fingers to soften it.

2. Using both hands apply cream over the face. Start at the chin and with a sweeping movement slide to end of jaw, from base of nose to temple along the side of nose, between the brows and across the forehead to temples.

3. Take additional cream, blend it, smooth down the neck, chest and back.

4. Start at the centre of the forehead, move lightly around the eyes, then towards the temples and back to the centre of the forehead.

5. Slide down the nose to the upper lip, smooth to the temples and forehead, then move lightly down to the chin and finally slide up towards the jawline, temples and forehead.

6. Remove cream with cleansing tissues or a warm moist towel. Start at the forehead and follow the contours of the face.

7. Remove all the cream from the area before proceeding to the next and finish with the neck and back.

8. Emollient (tissue) cream selected according to the type of skin should be applied in the same manner as the cleansing cream to the face, neck, shoulders and chest. Use lanolin or . hormone cream for dry skin and cold cream for an oily skin.

Procedure for a Facial:

1. Remove make-up from the face, if any (including lipstick).

2. Apply cream over the face using both hands at the chin. Starting from chin, lift the chin, slide fingers to temples, rotate with upwards pressure, slide to left eyebrow, then stroke up to hairline gradually moving hands across forehead to right eyebrow.

3. Take additional cream and blend. In long even strokes, smooth down the neck, chest and back. These are optional manipulations.

4. Start at the centre of the forehead; go lightly around the eyes to temples and back to centre of forehead.

5. Slide down nose to upper lip; smooth to temples and forehead; lightly down to chin; then firmly up jawline to temples and forehead. .

6. Remove cleansing cream with cleansing tissues or a warm moist towel. Start at the forehead and follow the contours. Remove all cream from one place before proceeding to the next. Finish with neck and back.

7. Steam the face mildly with a warm moist towel or facial steamer. Now remove comedones, if necessary.

8. Sponge the face with an anti-septic.

9. Apply emollient (tissue) cream to face, neck, shoulders and chest.

10. Apply eye cream around the eyes and muscle oil around the neck, if required.

11. Massage the face; give manipulations using the hands and fingers together. The hands should be slightly cupped. The left hand should fall upon the skin at chest, while the skin is patted twice with the right hand. With this movement cover the area of the chest and neck until the chin is reached. Then use the middle and ring fingers with the same patting movement over the upper lip, eyes, nose and forehead. Be careful as these tissues are delicate and bruise easily. Follow the same with muscle strapping routine.

Chest, Back and Neck Manipulations (optional): Some beauty experts prefer to treat chest, back and neck areas first before starting the regular facial. The procedure to treat these areas is as follows:

1. Apply and remove cleansing. cream.

2. Apply massage cream.

3. Give manipulations. Use rotary movement across chest • and shoulders, then to spine.

4. Now slide fingers to base of neck. Rotate three times. Rotate shoulders three times. Slide fingers to spine, then to the base of neck. Apply circular movement up to back of ear, and then slide fingers to front of earlobe. Rotate three times.

5. To relax client, use thumbs and index fingers at the back of the neck to stimulate tissues. Rotate six times and repeat movements over shoulder and back to the spine.

6. Remove cream with tissues or warm, moist towels.

7. Dust the back lightly with talcum powder and smooth.

Facial for Dry Skin: A dry skin is caused by an insufficient flow of sebum from the sebaceous glands. For more effective results apply electric current (use negative galvanic current for 3 to 5 minutes). For better results, expose face and neck to infra-red lamp upto 5 minutes. Place infra-red lamp about 24 inches away from the face. For dry skin, avoid using lotions which contain a large percentage of alcohol. Apply a skin lotion suitable for dry skin. The manipulations can be given four to five times. Apply lubricating oil or eye cream over and under the eyes, and over the neck. The procedure for facial will be similar to the plain facial as above. .

Procedure for Facial for Dry Skin with Galvanic Current: The procedure is similar to facial as stated above with infra-red lamp. The negative current must be applied for 3 to 5 minutes to open the pores. Exposure to infra-red lamp should not be more than 5 minutes. Apply positive electric current for 3 to 5 minutes to close the pores. Procedure for Facial for Dry Skin with High-frequency Current: The procedure will be similar to the facial as indicated above. Give manipulations, using indirect High Frequency Current for not more than 7 minutes. Apply two to three cold towels to the face and the neck. Sponge the face and the neck with skin freshener, then apply a moisturizer or protective fluid.

Facial for Oily Skin: An oily skin is prone to blackheads (comedones), which are caused by a hard mass of sebum usually formed in the blocked ducts of sebaceous glands. Diet plays an important role in the formation of oily skin and blackheads. In case of an oily skin, prepare for a plain facial. Apply cleansing lotion and remove it with a warm, moist towel, moist cotton pads or facial sponges. Place the moistened eyepads on the eyes, then analyse the skin. Now steam the face with a facial steamer to open the pores and remove blackheads. To remove blackheads, cover your fingertips with tissue and gently press out blackheads lightly. Do not press hard so as to bruise the skin tissues. In case of a skin disease, avoid facial. Sponge the face with astringent and cover eyes with pads moistened with a mild astringent. Apply massage cream, give manipulations, remove the cream. Now moisten a cotton wool swab with astringent lotion and apply it to the face and neck with upward and outward movements to close the pores. Blot the excess moisture with tissues. A protective lotion may be applied, if needed.

Facial for Acne Skin: Facial for acne skin should be able to cleanse the skin, reduce oiliness and remove blackheads. A six -stage facial as detailed below is recommended:

Stage 1: Cleansing with rose water.
Stage 2: High-frequency current for 3 to 5 minutes.
Stage 3: Applying Acne Face Pack, followed by steaming the face.
Stage 4: Blackhead removal.
Stage 5: Cold compression.
Stage 6: Sun Screen Cream.

Home Facial for Acne Skin: Home facial for acne skin should be followed thus :
1. Cleanse the face with a medicated soap and warm water.

2. Apply high-frequency current over the affected skin for not over five minutes. Then remove the acne cream with tissues.

3. Apply a face pack suitable for acne skin and keep it on for ten minutes, remove the mask and blot the residue with a cold, wet towel.

4. Now wet cotton with an astringent lotion and apply with a blotting movement.

5. Moisten a piece of cotton with an antiseptic lotion and touch each and every pimple or acne.

6. Do not apply make-up on an acne-prone skin.

Quick Home Facial: A facial is the quickest way to revive and liven up jaded skin. For a quick home-facial, follow these steps:

1. Apply cream all over the face in dots and blend it thoroughly, massaging your face and neck in an upward direction.

2. Prepare a face-pack suited to your skin type and apply on the face.

3. When it is dry (15-20 minutes), wash your face and neck with cold water, keeping your eyes closed. Dry your skin and apply a skin tonic.

4. Then apply moisturizer followed by make-up.

Hot Oil Mask Facial: This type of facial is very beneficial for dry scaly skin and skin prone to wrinkles. Procedure for hot oil mask facial is as following:

1. Give a plain facial. Cover the eyes with eyepads moistened with mild astringent.

2. Moisten gauze facial with warm oil and place on the face, starting at the throat. Gauze is a thin, transparent fabric of loosely woven cotton commonly called cheesecloth. Gauze is used to hold certain mask ingredients that do not cling or hold together on the face. The gauze holds the mask on the face and allows the ingredients to seep through to benefit the skin.

3. Place the infra-red lamp about 24 inches from the client’s face. Have infra-red rays for 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Remove the gauze facial mask.

5. Apply massage or moisturizing cream.

6. Give facial manipulations and remove cream with a warm, moist towel, then apply an astringent lotion followed by application of moisturizer or protective lotion.

Vitamin C Facial: Very useful for sensitive and dehydrated skin. Follow these steps:

1 Stage: Cleansing with cream, milk or lotion according to skin.
2 Stage: Massage with friction and peeling.
3 Stage: Application of skin food according to type of skin.
4 Stage: Lymphatic and normal massage manipulations for 10-15 minutes.
5 Stage: Application of Peeling Facial mask with light friction.
6 Stage: Application of Vitamin C fluid on face.
7 Stage: Venus Massage followed by High Frequency Treatment.

Oxygen Bath Facial Treatment: Most suited for young and mature skins, especially post acne skin. Remember, the side effects of this facial on post acne turns into acne. After this treatment 2-3 acne appears on the face, which is good sign. Following steps are needed for this treatment:

1 Stage: Cleansing the skin with cream, milk or lotion.
2 Stage: Suction with softening milk.
3 Stage: Steaming the face for opening skin pores with alkaline scrub for 3 to 5 minutes.

4 Stage: Apply vitaminal cream on young oily skin. If it is not available, do not give massage with other cream. In case of dry young skin, Mint Gel should be applied with normal massage for 12 to 15 minutes. After massage routine, clean the face with vitaminal toner.

5 Stage : Apply oxygen rich for 10-15 minutes which heals damaged acne. High Frequency treatment for 4-5 minutes is recommended. Merge oxygen cream by tapping into the skin.

Thermoherb Pack Facial: The facial is useful for ageing. wrinkled. dry skin and the steps are as follows :

1 Stage: Cleansing with cream. milk or lotion.
2 Stage: Massage with cream for 15-30 minutes.
3 Stage: Application of Thermoherb pack.
4 Stage: Now remove blackheads followed by cold compression.
5 Stage: Apply Sun Protection Cream.

Alfa Hydroxy Acid Treatment Facial (A.H.A.): An AH.A facial consists of the following steps :

1. Cleansing with a cleansing lotion or cream.

2. Suction with the help of softening milk.

3. Alkaline scrub (optional) with steaming the face with friction massage.

4. Apply cream according to skin. preferably a skin food mixed to Gel for 15- 20 minutes.

5. Give lymphatic and normal massage for 5 to 10 minutes and remove blackheads.

6. Use high frequency current for less than five minutes to remove infection.

7. Apply protein mask suitable for acne or an oily skin. If the skin is sensitive. give whitening mask instead of AH.A mask. Allow to dry for 20-25 minutes.

Suction: For cleaning up the skin with the help of suction by an electrically operated gadget. which sucks out the infection to the upper layer of epidermis from the deeper layers. different cosmetic products i.e. cleansing milk or vitaminal milk or softening milk are used according to the type of skin as stated below :

1. If the skin is normal, cleansing milk or softening milk may be used.
2. If the skin is oily, use softening milk for suction.
3. If the skin is dehydrated (dull skin), cleansing milk is used for suction.
4. For acne skin (infected skin), use softening milk for suction.
5. In case of dry skin, use cleansing milk.
6. For post acne skin (dry in nature), cleansing milk is used for suction.
7. No suction is given to sensitive skin.

Brushing: An electronic gadget which helps in removing dirt, impurities, grease, and dead cells from the skin during facial treatment. Various attachments i.e. brushes of assorted size, pumice stone and sponge are included in the gadget. The assorted brushes clean the skin of the face including corners and curves of nose and other parts of the face. Pumice stone having corrosive action helps in the peeling of dead cells from the skin. Sponge is used on sensitive skin for spreading cream evenly besides helping in removing dust and bacteria. Brushing also removes uneven-tone correction and to smooth out the surface or texture of the skin.

Vapozone (Facial Steamer): The electrically operated gadget produces a moist, uniform heat to produce steam and cleanse the skin. It warms the skin and induces the flow of blood, oil and sweat. It cleans the skin pores and softens any scaliness on the surface of the skin.

Vapozone for Cold Spray: An electrically operated gadget which sprays rose water over the face with controlled cool temperature. Cold spray gives cooling effect. cures itchiness and burning. controls redness caused during facial and closes the skin pores.

Custom-designed Face Masks: These face masks are usually prepared from fresh fruits. vegetables. milk. yogurt or egg. They are left on the face for 10 to 15 minutes. Following ingredients are used in custom-designed masks due to their benefits to the skin:

• Fresh fruit mask: Fresh strawberries can be crushed or sliced and applied to the face for a mildly astringent, stimulating mask. Crushed banana mask is useful for dry and sensitive skin leaving it soft and smooth.

• Vegetables: Are mildly astringent and have excellent soothing qualities. The vegetables include tomatoes and cucumbers. Carrot juice, rich in vitamin A is used for nourishing the skin. Basil leaves are a potent skin tonic. Coriander is a carminative and cooling agent. Garlic has antiseptic, drawing properties and helps curing several skin diseases. Lemon, rich in vitamin C has acidic properties and is used in bleaching and astringent lotions. Onion juice prevents blemishes when applied on the skin mixed with honey. Potatoes have cleansing and drawing properties. It clears the skin and removes puffiness of eyes.

• Egg: White of egg can be beaten until fluffy and applied to the face as a mask. Egg white has a tightening effect and clears the skin.

• Yogurt and buttermilk: Are used for masks on all types of skin. Yogurt (made from milk) contains enzymes and is used as a base for cleansing and face masks. Butter milk has mildly astringent cleansing action which leaves the skin feeling refreshed.

• Honey: Is used for its toning, tightening and hydrating effect on the skin.

• Vitamin capsules: Vitamin A is useful for dry skin and cures acne. Vitamin B promotes health of the skin and hair. Vitamin C heals acne and pimples. Vitamin D, too, has a healing effect on the skin. Vitamin E is said to have healing properties. Vitamin F counteracts dry, chapped skin.

• Flowers: Marigold and Rose are a rich source of beauty. Marigold cures varicose veins and various circulatory troubles. As a lotion, a marigold infusion (petals only) is very useful for over-oily skin and complexion. It helps cure eczema and ringworm. Rose petals are a rich source of Vitamin E. Rose water made from rose petals is widely used in skin tonics and creams.

• Oils: These play an important role as beauty care, and the range of oils is so vast that they cover the entire ‘top-to-toe’ beauty of body and hair treatments. Almond, coconut, sesame, castor, clove and cinnamon are the commonly used varieties of oil to enhance skin and hair beauty in India. Almond oil is used for face massage, to improve complexion, to prevent wrinkles around the eyes and to remove eye make-up. Coconut oil when mixed to camphor has been found to cure skin diseases and makes hair healthy. Sesame oil softens rough skin and is very good for growth of hair. Olive oil when massaged, nourishes the skin and makes hair healthy and glossy.

Face Packs for Toning of Tired Skin: A pack should always be applied after applying a scrubber, because a scrubber opens the pores and therefore it becomes very necessary to close down the pores with the help of face pack. If someone has a very wrinkled skin or very dry skin, then that person should remove the mask when it is partly dry. Face packs are of the following types:

• Gram Flour Pack (for normal skin) : Mix two tablespoons of gram flour and four tablespoons of milk and apply allover the face and neck. Leave for ten minutes, then wash off.

• Lemon Face Pack (for oily skin): Mix two tablespoons honey with one teaspoon lemon juice and one teaspoon rose water. Apply all over the face. Leave for five minutes, then wash off.

• Milk Powder Face Pack (for dry skin): Mix one tablespoon milk powder with one teaspoon gram flour and two tablespoons rose water. Leave it on for 15 to 20 minutes, then wash off.

• Almond Face Pack (for very dry skin) : Mix together the yolk of an egg, a teaspoon of almond oil and a teaspoon of milk cream. Apply on the face for 15 minutes, then wash off.

• Curd Face Pack (for tanned skin): Mix to a teaspoon of curd ten almonds (ground) and use the pack to remove tan and soften the skin.

• Fuller’s Earth Face Pack (for dull skin): Make a paste by mixing Fuller’s Earth (multani mitti), brewer’s yeast and rose water. Apply to the face for 15 minutes. This face pack nourishes the skin.

• Sandalwood Face Pack (for pimply skin): Rub a piece of sandalwood on a clean stone using a little rose water or cucumber juice. Apply the paste thus formed on the face. Curing pimples and acne, this mask gives a tingling fresh feeling.

• Cucumber Juice race Pack (for blemished skin): Form a paste, mixing any of these powders, such as gram flour, kaolin, Fuller’s Earth, dry milk powder. This face pack will tighten the skin pores.

• Tulsi Face Pack (anti-bacterial pack): Use it with toner or an astringent lotion for best results. This face pack is suitable for pimples, acne and scarred skin.

• Neem Face Pack (antiseptic pack): Crush neem leaves and use it with toner or astringent for best results. The pack is suitable for curing pimples, acne and scarred skin.

• Orange Face Pack (oil-control pack): Squeeze orange and mix to the astringent for good results on oily skin.

• Egg Face Pack (skin-tightening pack): Beat an egg and mix to it rose water or toner. The pack is suitable for dull, wrinkled skin.

• Anti-Sun-Tan Face Pack (for uniform complexion): Suitable for all types of skin. For best results use it with rose water and lemon juice.

• Glycerine Face Pack (skin toning pack): Rub sandalwood on a stone or powder of sandal purchased from a grocery shop. Mix to it rose water and glycerine to make a paste. The pack is most suitable for all types of skin.

• Rose Water Face Pack (cleansing pack): Grind cucumber (peeled) and mix to it rose water and apply on all types of skin on the face.

Skin and Scalp Care by Electric Therapy: Electricity is a form of energy, which when in motion, produces magnetic, chemical or heat effects. The beneficial effects of electricity have been recognized to be of great value in cosmetology and very useful for skin care. Before you use electricity for skin care you should know about the different currents that can be used and their various uses.

Galvanic Current: It is a constant and direct current having opposite poles i.e. Positive pole has acidic reaction, soothes nerves, decreases blood supply and hardens tissues. On the other hand, negative pole has alkaline reaction, stimulates nerves, increases blood supply and softens tissues. Positive pole may be used for the following conditions:

1. To make flabby skin and tissues firmer.
2. To close the skin pores after finishing a facial treatment.
3. To decrease redness, as in mild acne.
4. To prevent inflammation after come done treatment and electrolysis.
5. To force astringent lotions into the skin.
The negative pole may be used for the following:
1. To remove superfluous hair by electrolysis.
2. To force bleaching solution into the skin.

Faradic Current: It is an alternating and interrupted current capable of producing a mechanical reaction, without a chemical effect. Faradic current may be used during facial and scalp manipulations. Do not use Faradic current if it causes pain or discomfort, if you have high blood pressure and broken capillaries or postural condition of the skin. Sinusoidal Current: It is an alternating current having the following advantages: 1. It has greater stimulation and deeper penetrating effect. 2. It soothes the nerves and penetrates into the deeper muscle tissue. The Sinusoidal current should not be used for more than 15 minutes. Do not apply this current if the face is very flushed, you have broken capillaries on the skin, have any muscular condition or suffer from high blood pressure.

High Frequency Current: It is very useful for skin and scalp treatments. Electrodes of high frequency are made of glass or metal. As the current passed through glass electrodes, tiny violet sparks are emitted. The treatment should be started with a mild current and then gradually increased. The duration of the high frequency current depends upon the condition to be treated. For a general facial, about five minutes are adequate. A high frequency current stimulates the circulation of blood and increases glandular activity. It is used to treat falling hair and itchy scalp. It cures excessively oily or dry skin and scalp.

Skin Care by Light Therapy: Light waves travel at tremendous speed. The various kinds of light waves important role in beauty and skin care as explained below:

Ultra-violet rays: play an These produce. germicidal and chemical reactions. The invisible rays stimulate the activity of body cells, iron and vitamin D contents, and the number of red and white cells in the blood. Remember, the skin should be thoroughly cleaned before being subjected to ultra-violet rays. Keep the lamp 30 to 36 inches away from the skin to be treated because if the lamp placed within 12 inches of the skin, the rays are not only destructive to bacteria but also to the tissues. The average exposure to the skin may produce redness of the skin and cause blistering. Sunburn may result in various degrees, causing reddening of the skin and signs of first degree sunburn. Itching, burning or peeling are the signs of second degree sunburns. Ultra-violet rays are used to treat acne and to combat hair dandruff. They also promote the healing of the hair as well as their growth.

Infra-red rays: They produce a soothing effect and relax the skin without increasing the temperature of the body, dilate blood vessels in the skin and increase the production of perspiration and oil. The lamp is placed at a distance of 30 inches to apply infra-red rays in the beginning, then moved according to the requirement. Protect your eyes during exposure to infra-red rays. Do not allow the light rays to remain on body tissues for a long time. Move the hands, carrying the lamp back and forth to break constant exposure.

Visible Light: A dome-shaped reflector with lamp in various colors is used. The red light has strong heat rays leaving a stimulating effect over the skin. The light is recommended only for dry and scaly skin. To obtain the desired results, creams, oils and powder should not be present on the skin.